As I write these lines, I become very aware that I am not Swiss, and it is likely that the big secret is why it is easier for me to see things more clearly through the eyes of an outsider. I am allowed to think critically out loud, question, describe and also admire. Completely neutral and without running the political risk of being biased. At the same time, however, I would also like to appeal to the pride and tradition of the Swiss to become aware of this unique and special coffee speciality and its special tradition and technical finesse, to cultivate and continue this coffee culture. There is more than just Italian coffee and espresso – which I greatly appreciate – it is also important to finally recognise what is actually behind café crème and that this product is anything but ‘old fashioned’. It is in fact the most modern and technically complex coffee drink – both in terms of roasting and preparation. It has now been several years since I invited guests to Mannheim for the first Swiss Coffee Day, with the aim of raising awareness of café crème and helping it enjoy a renaissance. Swiss coffee roasters and Swiss coffee machine manufacturers were invited to Mannheim to discuss the traditions, background and, in particular, the future of this unique coffee speciality. The response was surprisingly low. Nevertheless, the participants agreed and, after this first meeting at the latest, were aware of how important, interesting and promising this Swiss coffee speciality is.

‘CAFÉ CRÈME’ refers first and foremost to a coffee prepared under pressure using a piston coffee machine. Traditionally, this Swiss coffee speciality was given this name because of the addition of liquid cream (French: crème). In Germany, this coffee is also incorrectly referred to as ‘Schümli’ coffee or simply “Schümli” because of the crema, or ‘coffee foam’, on the surface. A more accurate name would be ‘piston coffee’, as it is a coffee blend that has been specially created for preparation in a piston coffee machine. Café crème is also known as ‘caffè crema’ in northern Italy. Unfortunately, the exact origins of café crème are not yet fully documented. What is certain, however, is that it began its triumphant rise in the 1980s. Like espresso and filter coffee, café crème has its own roast and a unique preparation method, which belongs to the group of pressure methods. Café crème has a volume of 150 ml to 240 ml, which is the same as a cup of filter coffee. Since it is not a filtration process but, as mentioned, a pressure process, the grind is finer than for filter coffee but slightly coarser than the grind for espresso.

Comparisons with a caffè americano are only correct in terms of the volume of the drink. Caffè Americano is a normal espresso, which is later topped up with hot water to around 200 ml. In some cases, the espresso is also poured into a cup pre-filled with hot water to prevent the espresso from cooling down and causing an esterification reaction. In contrast, café crème is brewed completely through the coffee in an extraction time of around 20 to 30 seconds. With the machine set correctly and good quality coffee, pre-brewing is not necessary and can even be detrimental to the development of the flavour profile. Caffè Americano lacks the fruity notes and full body of café crème.

CAFÉ CRÈME owes its popularity to a professional group that was already well connected in the 1980s and knew this coffee from Switzerland – long-distance truck drivers. Using CB radio and mutual information about the locations of piston coffee machines at rest stops, they put a lot of pressure on petrol station and rest stop operators to purchase piston coffee machines, thereby initiating the displacement of filter coffee machines.